“Antoine Malassagne on the use of wood at AR Lenoble: “The aromatic complexity possibly brought by the use of wood should highlight the inherent qualities of a specific wine but it should never dominate. This is the difficulty of using wood, and mastery of this balance defines the art of using wood. It is impossible to establish predefined rules for the best use of barrels because, while there are fundamentals to respect, each growing year means the cards are reshuffled.” In 2001, for example, AR Lenoble used no wood at all because the vintage was so cool, the wines did not possess enough body to withstand time in barrel.
The complete article also includes interviews with winemakers François Domi at Billecart-Salmon, Julie Cavil at Krug, Dominique Demarville at Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin and Erik De Sousa of De Sousa. To read the complete article, click here: http://www.janeparkinson.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Champagne-Restaurant-July-2016.pdf
For more about Jane Parkinson: http://www.janeparkinson.com/about
This post is also available in: French